Here's another free pattern that I am obsessed with making, especially for the warmer weather. This one is for absolute beginners, is a super quick project and a good stash buster for some cotton yarn you may have around, and also has a video tutorial on Youtube which will be linked below when it is available!
Please note, this is a written pattern, however there is also a pattern available for purchase with step-by-step photo directions, without any additional links to our other products or ads, available here for $5.00:
You are welcome to sell finished headscarves, but please buy the pattern rather to support us as well as crediting us in the photos, posts, listings, etc, and let us know via email: firstname.lastname@example.org
The photo step-by-step pattern has 9 pages of detailed photos and direction and is well worth the purchase! Below are samples of the pattern so you have an idea of what you would be getting with the purchase.
There will be some photos in the free version of the patterns below, but not as much as the downloadable PDF. Please note there will also be ads in this blog post.
This pattern is not to be rewritten, redistributed, or sold. As a free pattern, you are free to share via link. You are welcome to sell finished projects and to accept commissions from this pattern, when you buy the PDF download of the pattern for $5.00, and you MUST credit Mrs Moon & Heaven in the post with a statement and tag (i.e. “Pattern by Mrs Moon & Heaven, @mrsmoonheaven). If it is not on a social platform where you are unable to tag us, instead include our website (i.e. “Pattern by Mrs Moon & Heaven, mrsmoonheaven.com) Mass distribution of this product is prohibited.
This pattern can be made with truly any size yarn and hook, but I highly recommend using a weight 2 or 3 cotton yarn that is soft and breathable with a hook size about 1-1.5mm bigger than the recommended hook size for the yarn. The reason for this is because it creates a beautiful drape in the headscarf! As for cotton, this is recommended because it can be sturdy, yet very soft, lightweight and breathable. Specifically I am using Hobbii Friends Cotton 8/6.
You can find an affiliate link below with the crochet hook recommended. You can change the color to any of the colors and take off the hook if you do not need it. Only one skein is needed (100g) for a headscarf and you will have some leftover yarn as well!
If you would like to use a lighter yarn, that will be fine, but keep in mind you will have to add on more rows for it to fit properly. Same goes for using a thicker yarn, you may need to take away some rows.
Gauge: 14 sts x 9 rows in DC = 4" x 4" or 10 cm x 10 cm
Dimensions of the Headscarf with this Gauge (Approximately): 14" wide (not including straps), 8.5" tall, 10" diagonal.
You do not have to match this gauge perfectly, however, note that if the swatch is slightly smaller, so may the final headscarf and vise versa.
See the full pattern for purchase for instruction on how to do custom sizing or using your own gauge with a different yarn and hook. In this version, you may not follow the gauge at all if you are using a different yarn weight and hook, but once again note that if the swatch/yarn/hook is smaller or bigger, the headscarf will also be smaller or bigger respectively.
In this pattern, I made 12 rows to make a pretty standard headscarf size, but you may add or take away rows if desired. This will effect the scalloped border, however. Once again, instructions for this with custom sizing will be in the full pattern.
Hook size: 5mm
Yarn: Weight 2, DK Yarn
I recommend it is on the heavier side of weight 2 or lighter side of weight 3
Yardage: Approximately 70-75 yards
14 sts x 9 rows in DC = 4" x 4" or 10 cm x 10 cm
Mc: Magic Circle
Sc: Single Crochet
Stsc: Stacked Single Crochet
Dc: Double crochet
Sl St: Slip Stitch
FO: Fasten Off
If a number is placed before the stitch, such as “3dc,” it means place 3 dc in the same space (dc cluster). If a number is placed after the stitch, such as “dc 3,” it means dc in the next 3 sts.
Ch 1 at beg of rounds/rows does not count as a st for sc and hdc rows.
I start each DC row with a stacked single crochet (stsc) as the first dc instead of a ch 3. The reason for this is because it created a cleaner edge compared to the ch 3. If you prefer to do a ch 3 as your first dc, you may do so. Just substitute the stsc with a ch 3.
Block your project when you are done! I like to wash and wet block mine.
Scalloped Border Options:
There will be two options given for the scalloped border (scallops meaning each half circle on the border consisting of a sc, 5dc, sc). Option 1 [bottom left, purple] and option 2 [bottom right, blue]. Although they are both similar, you can see the difference most in the corners of the triangle, with option 1 having 1 full scallop at each bottom corner and two meeting at the very top and option 2 having half scallops at each bottom corner and one larger scallop at the top.
If you are following your own gauge, you may have to alter the border a little, depending on the number of ending sts you have. For directions on how to do this, please see the full pattern for purchase. Please note, because of this, the ending product may vary slightly in terms of this border.
. Mc and ch 2 . This will count as the 1st dc. In the mc (making sure to go over the tail end), place 2dc. Ch 2. Dc 3. Tighten your mc just enough so you are still able to place your hook in the center (this is important for the bottom border later). Turn your work (no ch 1).
Stsc in 1st st. In same st, place dc. Place dc in every st until ch 2 space. In ch 2 space, 2dc, ch2, 2dc. Dc in every st until last st (ch 2 from start of round). At the top of the ch 2 from step 1, place 2dc. Turn your work.
In 1st st, stsc, dc. Dc in every st until ch 2 space. In ch 2 space, 2dc, ch 2, 2dc. Dc in every st until last st. In last st, 2dc. Turn your work.
Rep step 3 until you have 12 rows total, or the total number desired. (Keep in mind if you have a different amount of rows, you may have to do adjust for the the scalloped border).
Scalloped Border, option 1.
Ch 1. In the 1st st, sc. Sk a st. 5dc. Sk a st. Sc. This is your first scallop. Sk a st, 5dc. *Sk a st, sc, sk a st, 5dc* and rep between "*" until you are 1 st before the ch 2 space. You should have ended with a 5dc and 1 st left. In the ch 2 space, sc, ch 1, sc. Sk a st, 5dc and rep between "*" once more until you have 2 sts left. In the last st, sc.
Scalloped Border, option 2.
Stsc and 2dc in 1st st. Sk a st and sc. Sk a st and 5dc. Sk a st and sc. *Sk a st, 5dc, sk a st, sc* and rep between "*" until there is 1 st left before the ch 2 space. In the ch 2 space, 7dc. Sk the next st and sc. Rep between "*" until you have 2 sts left. In last st, 3dc.
Bottom Border & Straps
We will be sc into the sides of each row. When sc into the sides of dc, to ensure even gauge, sc into the post, or the side, of the dc and then sc into the base, or the bottom of the dc.
For the straps, I am doing sl st down the ch because it makes a thinner strap and it is faster than sc once you get the hang of it. However, if you find that you do not prefer this for whatever reason, doing sc instead works just as well.
Ch 1 and turn your work to the bottom of the triangle. Sc into the side of the prev row (1 sc if you ended with a sc and 2 for if you ended with a dc. Sc 2 in every dc until you reach the mc (the center) from the beg of the headscarf. Hdc into the mc. Tighten the mc by pulling the starting end (*tip: also crochet over this tail end this row and the next so it is less to weave in later, making sure to leave enough so you able to weave it in). Sc 2 in every dc until the end, placing the last sc at the top of the 1st st from your scalloped border row.
*Ch 55 (or about 10-12"). In 2nd ch from hook sl st and sl st until you reach the base of the ch.* In the next sc, attach with a sc. Sc across the bottom until you reach the opposite side. Rep between "*" once more. Attach to the bottom of the next sc with a sl st. Ch 1 and fo.
Weave in all ends.
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@mrsmoonheaven and credit us in your finished work!